This week so far

This week has been an amazing experience overall. I have gone from seeing average families to seeing really impoverished families. On Sunday, Kate, Karen and I spend the day in downtown Pristina, just looking for story ideas. We happened upon a group of film students who we got coffee with and chatted. Later in the afternoon, they took Michael, Shannon and me around. We got some okay photos, but it was too tourist-y to get much real work done.

Monday, I went to Gracanica (Gratz-ah-neech-ah) with Kate and our fixer Isak. We visited three families. The first was the youngest in the village. They have an 18 month old son who is absolutely adorable. Their house smelled like coffee. I had my first experience with Turkish coffee which, I might add, I don't like very much. It is thick and gritty, almost like you're eating sand. That's a little cliche. I was just now told that you are not supposed to drink the last couple sips, perhaps this would change my mind... doubtful. Anyway, we then went to an older couple's home. They live with the husband's parents and their children. Their house is beautiful and rather large. The third house we went to was of a man who raised pigeons.

Tuesday, Shannon, Karen, and I went out with Afradita and Arianita. We went to the red cross who then took us to a bombed neighborhood on the outskirts of Pristina.

Being in this village made me think that I will never again complain or say "I'm starving."

The first house we visited was by far the worst. There were, what we thought were, two boys playing in the street. We later found out that one of them was a girl. They ran into a building that was completely destroyed. The walls were collapsing, there was no ceiling, and the area reeked of mold. This was their house. We walked, silently, through a pitch black room. I couldn't see where we were going, as I was toward the back. My toes grasped for something solid on which to stand, but to no avail. I tried my hardest to keep balanced. We walked up 3 steps. I put my hand on the wall, only to find it wet and slightly sticky. It's a good thing I carry hand sanitizer with me. We arrived to a dimly lit room where the rest of the family was sitting. Eight people live in one very crowded room. I tried my best not to show my disgust. The family lives on approximately 40 euros a month. They can just barely afford food, but cannot afford clothing so they resort to wearing the same things almost every day. It was truly a heartbreaking sight...

The second family was only slightly better. They lived in the basement of a house that had been bombed. Their ceiling was fully constructed, though crude. This family seemed much happier. It was a woman, her husband, and their two children. Another woman (I'm not sure how they are related) and her child lived with them. I couldn't handle sitting inside so I stayed outside with the children.

The third family was a Roma family. I didn't get any information on them because the inside of their house was ridiculously warm, which is good for them.

Tuesday night was interesting for me. Although I know that I am safe here, it is very hard not to be overly nervous... Michael and Clay, who have the room next to mine and Kate's, opened their window and their door slammed very loudly. I was in my bathroom and the noise scared me terribly. It's amazing what your brain can do when you're terrified. I swear, it sounded as if a bomb had gone off and another way coming. I ran out into the hallway, half expecting the building to collapse. Karen met me in the hallway and I asked her what had happened. She, very calmly, explained that someone's door had probably slammed. Although I knew that this was the case (because I asked Michael and Clay), I couldn't stop my body from shaking for the next twenty minutes or so. While that may seem ridiculous to the readers, and embarrassing for me to admit, I feel that it needs to be said.

Also, Tuesday, I felt I had a bad day and that my photos were terrible, but we ended up having a small photo contest. We each picked our best and had the waiters judge and my photo won! I was so excited. It was a refreshing reassurance.

Wednesday was an unproductive day. I went in the morning with Ilka to Fushekosova. We went to a roma family's house and it was really neat. The woman was very open about her life and her 4 sons. Unfortunately, I didn't quite get all I wanted. I did get some good information and a couple good photos, but nothing great. I came back and ended up working a good amount and then went to a market with Michael and Valon.

This morning, I woke up at 6:30 to go to the market with Michael to get some shots of the stores opening and vendors setting up. After that, I came back expecting to work or do something not involving work, but Arben was here and was able to take me back to Gracanica! My afternoon was really great! I went back to the second family (the multigenerational household) and got lots of great photos and sound bytes. I love that community. Today has easily been the best day here. I am loving every minute of Kosovo and I'm really sad that it's Thursday already!

There are a lot of other things that have happened and are happening, but I'll write about that at another time, in another, more appropriate place.

I'll post photos tonight...

14 under one roof

Pictured above: Bahri Haliti interacts with his 2-year-old daughter Marjeta in their family’s living room. Bahri is one of 14 people living in their family’s farm house near the Ciciavica mountain range. (Michael Mason-D'Croz)

Bahri Haliti struggles to lead a family of 14 on land that has passed from father to son for generations. In 1999, Serbian attacks forced the family to leave its home for higher, safer ground - just to return to find the home destroyed by the Serbs.

Its home burned, all its possessions gone, this family rebuilt.

“It took us six months to rebuild our home” Bahri said.

Six months doesn’t do justice to the process that was – and has been – undertaken by Bahri and his family. Fourteen people live on the land – three generations – and they have only a three-room house completed.

That is not enough room for everyone to sleep, so Bahri and his family took to building what they call “barracks” to house the rest. Two “barracks” later and they finally have a roof over every head. However, this roof is mostly plastic tarp, no proper roof for them all.

On top of all that, the family’s work horse recently died. It didn’t have the money to afford a new horse, and in came World Vision. With a loan, Bahri bought a new work horse.

Yes, things are looking up for Bahri. With the new horse, his brother’s new job, his father’s job, social security and him working the land, this large family is able to survive.

They are not rich in money, but the family life that they live is rich beyond that of most others in the world. Faced with adversity, Bahri and his family have made the best that they – or anyone else – could.

Bahri isn’t the only family struggling since the war; many families have to deal with loss of land and loved ones.

Peace

I've come to realize that I am not painting the whole picture of my experiences in Kosovo thus far. So I suppose I will start with Sunday.

Sunday was our first full day here in Kosovo. Vanessa, Karen, Clay and I went with Arben, an refreshingly original man from World Vision. We drove to Prizren, a city in southern Kosovo. We made many stops along the way just to get a feel for the country and to practice a bit more with our cameras. After the excruciatingly long time spent cramped in a plane, it felt wonderful to get out and experience the unfamiliar. We stopped at a ski resort and took some landscape photographs. We also spotted a large group of men and boys playing soccer in a field so we pulled over. Just as we did, some KFOR who were walking down the road came to the field. We had hoped that they would start a game but they just posed for a few photos and went on their way.

Prizren was the most beautiful sight. One of the most memorable moments was visiting an extremely old Catholic church in the middle of town. Some people were making renovations inside and when we were leaving, we ran into the pastor and got a chance to speak with him about the history of the church and about Prizren.

It was a sightseeing day, no doubt, but I think that it was necessary.

Monday I spent in Gracanica, a suburb of Prishtina, with Lindsay and Isaak. We visited three different families. The first was Alexsandra and Goran Rakic. They were a young couple and they lived in a small home with their 18-month-old son, Dmitri. Alexsandra worked as a journalist but her husband, Goran lost his job in the ministry of transportation in Kosovo because he is Serbian. Alexsandra lamented about feeling imprisoned in her own home because of all of the Albanians moving in. They are moving to central Serbia soon because they feel the move would be best for everyone. One of the biggest reasons is their child. "There is no playground here," Alexsandra says. She foresees a brighter future for her son in Serbia. Goran also sees better opportunities in Serbia but is still reluctant to leave because his father is buried here in Kosovo. His grave is just across the street from the village.

The second family we visited was much older than the first. Dragan Lecic and his wife live with his parents in a home they have had their whole lives. It was interesting because Lecic's wife also mentioned feeling imprisoned in the village because of the Albanians who were purchasing the land surrounding their home. The Lecic's differed from the first family, however, because they are sticking around. They mentioned that it is understandable for younger families, such as the Rakic's, to leave because they have a lesser sense of perspective.

The third visit was short and fairly uneventful.

Tuesday was, until today, arguably the best day this week for me. Vanessa, Michael and I met up with Arben and Naz and visited a family in the Cicavica range. The family has such an interesting story. They lived at the base of the mountains. Then, during the war, their village became much too dangerous because Serbians had moved in so they were forced to retreat into the mountains and lived in barracks for a while. When they returned to their home, they found everything completely burnt, destroyed. They rebuilt their home in six months. It was also interesting because before the war they were a fairly middle class family. The father worked and the children were much younger and fewer. During the war, their father lost his job because he is Albanian. Today there are fourteen people living there. Two of the men work. Nine months ago they received a loan from KosInvest and used it to purchase a horse. They feel like things are improving greatly for them and they have great hope for the future. They were a beautiful family. Some of my favorite shots from this family are below.









After that we visited a war widow in the same village. One thing sticks out from that interview. Vanessa asked her if there were any specific memories of her husband that she would like to share. She replied quite simply, "I remember everything."

On the way back to Prishtina that evening we stopped by Sultan Murat's tomb and Gazimestan. These are memorials related to a battle in 1389 between the Ottomans and the Serbs. We were not allowed to walk up Gazimestan, even with our passports, because of the recent declaration of independence.

Sorry For the Delay

For those of you who were waiting for an update, here I am. I haven't forgotten about posting. Originally I was going to post as I was able to get my photos up but I'm super behind on photo work so it's just words.

The past few days have been amazing. I have seen a variety of things that leave me awestruck. Yesterday I went with two journalism students here. Afrodita and Arianita were two very beautiful women who took Shannon and I to the Red Cross to find contacts. After some conflicts with timing, we were able to meet with someone who would help take us to various families. We set appointments and in the afternoon I went to the community of Fushe Kosove, which is a suburb of Prishtina, and is comprised of minority groups including Askahli. This community was my first exposure to poverty. Not only were the houses depressing but it was hard for me to see a family living a hard life but still happy about the opportunities they have been given. I was disappointed in what had as far as photos because I froze up. It was hard for me to hear their stories even though I kept telling myself that I'm here to tell their story. They were so grateful I was there and tomorrow I'm going back with hopes of developing my story more and maybe see a calf be born. This is significant because the first family I visited are anxiously awaiting the birth of a calf so their cow will produce milk again and they can have a little more food for their family.

Today I went to the town of Vushtri to visit a family that lost their home during the war and now live in the Cicavica mountains where they originally fled. They have 14 family members living in their home and barely make ends meet, barely. The second story was one I have been pushing for all semester. I was able to interview a war widow who was left alone with 5 kids when her husband died during the war. At the time there was no support from the community she could turn to. She provides for her family by knitting items to sell at the market which only funds her two children, still at home, on 63 Euros a month. Her story was really heart breaking. There were a few moments when I felt I was about to break down, even our guide was touched. Even after 10 years she remembers everything about her husband and has little tangible items because their house was burnt down during the war.

The World Vision guide, Arben, has been the most help with the majority of my stories. Not only have I shared an interest in stories with him but he has been amazing about transporting us, helping to translate and helping us to take off and produce photos that make an impact. We've also been able to enjoy is taste in American music including Bob Dylan, The Beatles, and lots of Jazz. We want to do all we can to show our gratitude so Clay and I are going to make a variety of music CDs for Arben to enjoy, I think I'll share my love of Miles Davis.

We're all ready to find a story to nail down and dig deep. There are so many opportunities to see and write about that makes a week not long enough. I hope we can make a difference with our stories now that the world is paying attention to Kosovo.

I promise photos will come. I've been itching to post them I've just run into a few technological difficulties.

-Vanessa

Today

Today was really great. 

I wasn't happy this morning because I was forced into being an audio girl for the first, and probably the most interesting (to me) story. Clay has been harping about doing a story on the mines in Kosovo, so we got some contacts and he got a great story. Although I was upset because he got a good story, I'm really glad that that's the way it happened and I'm glad that if I'm not getting something, at least other people are. 

We were on our way to a second story involving the mines and ended up being dropped off at a school. While Clay distracted all the kids, I shot some pictures. It's days like this that really make me love photojournalism. There is nothing like a group of kids running towards you and screaming at you to take their photo. They were also chanting "A-me-ri-ca," and that made me feel pretty great.

Unfortunately, the second story fell through, but I managed to work my way into the school. The six year old school, which holds 151 students, is in a village called Mazgit.

This is where I would post photos if my internet were working properly.

After the school, I ended up going with the Red Cross to a few of the homes in the bombed-out part of Prishtina. It is absolutely amazing to see eight people living in what used to be a basement of a house that no longer exists. 

Again, I would post some photos if I could get them to load.

Look forward to them when Blogspot wants to work properly!

So far, this experience has truly been amazing- I'm learning so much.

I am really looking forward to tomorrow.

Until then...

Where the streets have no name.

Today was heartbreaking. I went into a community that was exactly what I needed to see here in Kosovo, a community that reflected the truth of the situation.

Piles of trash, fences and structures made from scrap metal, children playing in the street so excited to see our car driving through. I can’t even describe what it looks like there, but it looks like desperation. Everyone in this country has these sorrowful and deep eyes. Eyes are the window to the soul, this is well known, but somehow it is more so here. People smile with their eyes, but they also despair with them.

It made me feel sick/cry/throw all my money at the situation/ regret every time I ever said that I was poor. But I didn’t cry, I understood that this is life. In America we hide our poverty well, little lies and lives shoved under the rug of our disillusioned reality. Yes it exists, it always has. People should not have to live this way, it does not reflect justice or equality. So don’t look the other way, do something about it.

I do want to do something about it, and that is what we are doing. Sorry for the seriousness, but it is a serious situation.

Lets see, Sunday and Monday were full and crazy days. Everyone on the trip keeps asking me if my feet are ok because of my shoes, but most of the women here wear boots and heels like I do! I am used to this self-inflicted torture, it is not a problem, and I may even be a masochist, who knows. I did feel ridiculous though on Sunday when I entered my first mosque, because of the way I was dressed. Buildings like that speak to you, whether from religious significance or some other factor. It’s something to do with the value and importance people place on one specific location that gives it a special vibe. The way the light trickled down into the main room, the faded rugs with dimly lit colors, the strings hanging down into the main room with no purpose since electricity (before they had been a way to light the building). It was very special. Anyway, this does not seem to be connected with shoes, but it is! I had to take off my boots and I felt very silly because of my knee high blue socks under my jeans… so I guess I should not wear my obnoxious valentines day lip socks later in the week unless I know where I am going for sure!

Some local superstitions: When an imam died at one of the mosques, people would go by and drop a coin through a window and a girl would light a candle representing that coin and the wish the coin represented. When the candle extinguished itself then your wish would be fulfilled. Also, there is a water fountain that is supposed to promise you to find love if you drink for it. Well what they told me is that I would find a man if I drank from it! I don’t know if I am looking for love or a man, but I did it anyway, for good luck!

I can’t help but feel apprehensive and provide my own superstitions against the birds here in Kosovo. Each night around dusk, hundreds fly into the city and roost in the trees. It’s kind of horrifying, especially when you have seen Alfred Hitchcock’s “The Birds.” But people here don’t find it strange, after all, Kosovo means place of black birds, well the Serbian word for bird is kos. Interesting.
Also:
-Vanessa’s tap dancing stumble, still makes me laugh thinking about it
-I heard a U2 song in a coffee shop today, it made my day. Music is so weird here, the other morning Vanessa and I woke up to "Super Freak" by Rick James.
-I had a great time shopping in the city today
-I think by the end of this trip Clay and Scott will be psycho on nicotine because people smoke all the time, which leads them to smoke all the time, and I will be crazy on caffeine by the amount of coffee I drink a day. I can’t imagine how grumpy we will all be after the plane ride back!
-Today was St. Patrick’s Day, I am partly Irish and wore green but no one else did! Ha-ha, what did I expect, a parade?
-I am having a great and fun time, but I am very focused as well.

It is beautiful here, and the weather has been lovely. The people are amazing as well, kind and intelligent, and managing as well as they possibly can. Their resolve and optimism are admirable.

University worker feeds family of 12 with 242 Euros a month

Vesel Presresha feeds a family of 12 with 242 Euros a month, which he earns delivering meat to University of Pristina students. The university provides free housing for Presresha and his family, but the housing complex that houses 17 families features holes in the ceiling, crumbling walls and junk strewn about the yard. The rundown building, located in the center of Pristina on Mother Teresa Avenue, sits between some of the city’s nicest buildings. From his one-room dwelling, Presresha can see the National Library through his window. When he walks out his front door, he sees the University of Pristina’s language department, where English, French, philosophy and chemistry classes are taught.